By far, the simplest way to learn about a nation is through its cuisine. In Budapest, patriotism is kept alive through the old dishes and traditions. Desserts are named for composers, operas, emperors and counts.
Hungarians are thought to only consume fatty, heavy cream-laden dishes. Another misconception is that the key ingredient to all dishes is the throat-burning hot red paprika. Sorry to have to disappoint you, but the sweet red paprika is used to enhance the flavour and the colour of the dishes whereas the hot red paprika adds the burn that some crave. Bacon grease can be substituted with vegetable or grape seed oils. But a friendly reminder about ingredient judgments, the amount of bacon grease Hungarian's use in meat dishes, is equivalent to what you will find on a Harvey's Bacon Cheeseburger.
History tells us that the first people to live in present-day Hungary were called Magyars, who arrived in around A.D. 800. Hungary's National Dish, a meat stew called gulyás (goulash) can be traced to the Magyars' eating habits. They traveled with the dried cubes of meat cooked with onions. Water was easily added to make a stew. So the story is told; the Gulyás (herdsmen) made Gulyás (shepherd's stew). The soup is called Gulyás Leves. And although the connection to Hungarian food and goulash is famous throughout the world, there is so very much more to Hungarian's delicious and flavourful cuisine than this renowned soup.
15th Century
The reign of King Matthias (1458-1490) is recorded to be a high point in Hungarian history, for both food and culture alike. King Matthias brought Italian cooking to Hungary through his Italian wife, Queen Beatrice and during this period, cooking was raised to a fine art.
16th Century
In the sixteenth century, when the Turks invaded Hungary, they brought their unique cooking customs along with them. Some of their foods were: paprika and a thin, flaky pastry called Filo (or phyllo) dough. Recorded history goes on to share that some new cooking traditions were started as the Turks taught the Hungarians how to cook. They shared their methods of stuffing peppers and eggplants. Coffee was also introduced to Hungary by the Turks.
17th -20th Century.
From the seventeenth century to the beginning of the twentieth century was labeled as the period of Austrian Rule where Austria's Hapsburg Monarchy (1526-1867): gained total control over Hungary. During this time, the prevalent German and Austrian cooking styles influenced the Hungarians' eating habits. It was believed that during this period that Hungary became famous for its cakes and pastries. Officially, from 1867-1918, the Hapsburgs ruled & Austria-Hungary.
Hungarian food is often chastised as too greasy or too fatty; however, this classic old world cuisine has more flavour and appeal than most people think.
Probably the best known ingredient in Hungarian food is paprika, the red powdered spice. Its flavour and colour is prominent in countless Hungarian dishes. Other everyday staples of Hungarian cooking include: onions, cabbage, potatoes, noodles and caraway seeds. Both cream and sour cream are used rather heavily in the Hungarian kitchen to soften flavours, add creamy texture and a subtle tang.
Dumplings (Nokedli) of all sorts, shapes and sizes are very popular. Other popular staples like cabbages and green peppers are used in countless ways. The most popular and well-known method is stuffed cabbage rolls. Peppers are also stuffed; with various ground meats, spices and rice. Another favourite is the French version of pancake/crepes called Palacsinta. It is popularly prepared as an appetizer, meal and dessert and is often rolled around apples, cottage cheese, noodles and shredded ham.
Hungarians are well-known to consume a tremendous amount of meat; mostly pork or beef. Chicken is a close second after red meats as a popular poultry staple. Many meat dishes are dredged in flour, egg and coated with bread crumbs and then fried or baked.
A vast array of sausages is produced in Hungary. The two most popular smoked sausages are Csabai Kolbász and Gyulai Kolbász. Hungary's different regions all have their own sausage recipes and tastes - all delicious.
Porkolt seems to rank high on the votes as Hungary's National dish. It is slowly braised stew which uses onions and paprika to create the delicious saucy gravy. The dish they call goulash, or Gulyás, is actually a soup made with meat and paprika. Paprika is also a key ingredient in another national dish; a fish soup called Halászlé.
Throughout the world, the Hungarians are well-known for their elegant tortes, pastries and squares. The Turks brought the beautifully flaky pastry dough called Filo or phyllo to Hungary in the seventeenth century. The Hungarians fill the phyllo dough with their own ingredients to make a dessert known as Rétes or strudel. Rétes fillings include apples, cherries, and poppy seeds.
Hungary is also very well known for its wines, especially the Tokaji Aszú, a sweet dessert wine grown in the region of Tokay.
Don't be shy - give Hungarian Food a try - you will be so happy you did!
You will find all the original Hungarian Recipes from European old world cookery in Helen's Hungarian Heritage Recipes TM. Over 440 recipes that will be sure to bring back memories of your grandmother in the kitchen. These classic recipes have been 70 years in the making. All the aromas and flavours that just make for warm and comforting meals.
Treat yourself to a new style of eating. Simple, flavourful, fresh ingredients and absolutely delightful.
Clara M. Czegeny is self-proclaimed Hot Hungarian Chef and Author of Helen's Hungarian Heritage Recipes TM Cookbook. For free Recipes and more on Hungarian Food, visit http://www.helenshungarianrecipes.com/
We are Chef Helen Czégény & Clara M. Czégény, co-authors of Helen's Hungarian Heritage Recipes - Canadian BestSeller. CTV & Liaison Culinary College Guest Chefs! A spontaneous and spectacularly scintillating editorial on excellent moments in time from the Hot Hungarian Chef. "the Secrets of Hungarian Cooking" are finally revealed through the customs, traditions and well guarded recipes of the Czégény-Szabo families. Don't miss one post!
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Friday, December 3, 2010
Hungarian Retes – Strudels or Rétes Tészta (Part II)
Hungarian Retes
Strudels
One of the keys to light, flaky Hungarian strudel dough is the flour. In Hungary , special flour is sold specifically for strudel, but of course this isn't available everywhere. My mother recalls as a little girl having to go to the flour mill to ask for a specific grade of flour – depending on what her mother wanted to bake. For strudel – you need hard wheat flour. It has the gluten consistency necessary for the stretching that yields the thin papery pastry. As an alternative, look for flour that is finely ground and contains a high level of gluten. Bread and pastry flour work well. If you're in North America , try to get flour from Manitoba , as it tends to contains a very high gluten content. The gluten here really is essential. This cannot be stressed enough. But, having said all that, you can use all-purpose flour with acceptable results.
If you are a pastry connoisseur, this is definitely a recipe to try from scratch. The instructions here present the ingredients in the order you'll actually use them when you put the strudel together, but it is easiest to prepare the fillings before you start the dough. That way you can fill the dough immediately after stretching it, so it won't have a chance to become dry and brittle. (Important Note to the Aspiring Chef: The traditional method of making strudel dough is a fair amount of work. If you are shy about preparing strudel from scratch, not to worry. Use a package of Phyllo dough instead. It can be readily purchased from grocer’s freezer pastry section. The end results are virtually the same. Just follow directions on package. )
Strudel Dough Ingredients
4 cups all purpose flour
(or hard wheat flour
if accessible)
2 cups sour cream
2 teaspoon vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
4 egg yolks
2 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1 cup warm water
1 lb Crisco, melted
In a large mixing bowl, blend all ingredients except the shortening. Knead dough consistently for about ½ hour to get the gluten going. Dough should be light and very smooth. Cover – let rest 1 hour in a moderately warm area.
Strudel Stretching Stage: After the dough is well-rested, prepare your work surface. Spread a clean linen table cloth evenly on a large table and dust lightly with flour. Place the dough in the centre of table and gently starting stretching it by using the back of your hands, placing them underneath the large mass of dough. Start working your way around the table. Continue the even stretching until you reach a ⅛” thickness. Then, spread the melted Crisco shortening using a pasty brush over the entire surface. Use light strokes being careful not to tear the delicate dough. Cover and let the stretched dough rest for 10 minutes.
Fillings: Place your favourite filling by dotting all over the strudel dough evenly. Hint: Don’t be tempted to place all the filling at one end of the pastry sheet and roll up. This will make the log lumpy and the dough will end up thick at one end. (Not a pretty sight or bite.) Then, gently roll up the strudel using the tablecloth to assist. Fit the large rolled log onto a baking sheet. If it’s too large and your cookie sheet is not of adequate size, feel free to curve the log into somewhat of a large “U”. Then, finally, brush the top with Crisco or melted butter. Bake at 350°F for 20-25 minutes until flakes start to separate and the strudel is shiny and golden brown. Remove from oven, let cool about 10- 15 minutes before cutting into diagonal 3” pieces using a sharp cerated knife. Use a gentle sawing motion – without pressure so as not to disturb the fillings. Place pastry pieces onto a plate and dust generously with icing sugar. If serving creamed custard, spoon over generous dollops and let the hot strudel melt the cream. Or, puddle the custard and set the dessert in the center – dusting with confectioner’s sugar to finish off!
Sweet Strudel Fillings: Cherry, apple, poppy seed, walnut and cottage cheese and noodles.
Savoury Strudel Fillings: Cabbage, Mushroom or Ham Strudel (savour the possibilities – chicken, asparagus, pan fried onions, spinach, potatoes (oven roasted) ricotta or farmers cheese.
Cabbage Strudel
Cottage Cheese Noodles Phyllo Bundles
Cottage Cheese Strudel
Grape Strudel With White Wine Sauce
Ham Strudel
Poppy Seed Strudel
Potato Strudel
Rice Pudding Strudel
Sour Cherry Strudel
Varga Strudel Cake With Noodles
Walnut Strudel
Wild Mushroom Strudel
Jó étvágyat kívánok!
Hungarian Retes – Strudels or Rétes Tészta
Hungarian Retes – Strudels or Rétes Tészta
The pride of Hungarian cooks is definitely the Strudel - Rétes Tészta (pronounced "RAY-tesh"). The dough is folded several times, creating several layers, hence the name. Rétes is the "King" of pastries in Central Europe . Hungarian Rétes is similar to the Vienna Strudel, except it is a bit thinner. Rétes is a Hungarian peasant cake and is used to be a part of every celebration feast in the Hungarian lowlands. Today, it is prepared all over Hungary !
There is a definite family resemblance between Strudel Dough and the Greek Phyllo. The Hungarians first adopted the incredibly thin strudel dough from the Turkish pastry Baklava. This famous dessert is a rich, sweet pastry made of layers of phyllo dough filled with chopped nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey. Also, Greeks use spinach as well to create their Spanakopita or spinach pie is a Greek savoury pastry in the burek family with a filling of chopped spinach, feta cheese. It is not rolled the same as the strudel - rather folded neatly into a triangular parcel, but the dough preparation is identical. It is characteristic of the cuisines of the former Ottoman Empire and much of central and southwest Asia . Phyllo of Filo actually means "leaf" in Greek, but according to the food historians, it is of Turkish origin. Countless Turkish dishes have been adopted into Hungary from these people (after all – they did rule the land for 150 years.) The flakey, flavourful, layered sheets of tissue-thin pastry are simply delicious and can be used in countless savoury and sweet recipes alike. Thank you Turkey !
And, while the German and Austrian varieties tend to be a little heavier and sweeter, Hungarian Strudel is much lighter and flavourful without being overly sugary. An important note to make is that the traditional Austrian Strudel pastry is different from strudels served in other parts of the world and are often made from Puff Pastry.
“Cream colored ponies and crisp apple strudels”...taken from the Sound of Music is a very Austrian tradition. To many people, Apple Strudel is the most famous of all strudels as well as the most famous of all Austrian pastries; it has always been closely associated with Vienna in particular. However, we must clarify an important point right from the start - it is generally accepted that the dessert did not originate in Austria at all. So, the origins mystery of this fine pastry dough remains unsolved.
The warm, sugar-dusted strudel is often associated with cafés of central Europe . But even after close examination of each of those country’s’ strudel, not one is the same nor are the names consistent. In Hungary it is known as Rétes. In Slovenia as Strudel or Zavitek. Tthe Czechs and Slovaks call it Závin or štrúdl. In Romania it is known as Strudel and finally, the Croatians use a similar name and call it štrudla or Savijača.
History differs on exactly how this Hungarian strudel arrived in Vienna, but the general theory is this: with the departure of the Ottoman invaders (the Ottoman Empire at its height included Vienna), the now unemployed Turkish and Hungarian cooks took their skills and specialties (and certainly strudel was among them) to the kitchens of the Viennese aristocrats in the new Austro-Hungarian empire.
Although the origins of strudel still seem to be fuzzy and many countries would want to lay claim on this delightfully light and versatile pastry, we cannot say with certainly that we have zeroed in on the origins. The key piece of information is that recipes for strudel differ from country to country. Now, a little research yields the following: the oldest recipe found dates back to the late 1600’s, a handwritten one at that – and found in Vienna at the city library – The Wiener Stadtbibliothek. From this recipe, the pastry is believed to have its origins in the Byzantine Empire or Middle Eastern pastries. Some guess that the strudel entered Austrian kitchens via Bosnia and Croatia and thus is derived from Börek. Börek (also called Burek and other variants) is a family of baked or fried filled pastries made of a thin flaky dough known as yufka (or phyllo). It is often filled with assorted cheeses- feta, sirene or kaşar. Others are filled with minced meat or vegetables. Now these are thought to have been invented in Central Asia by nomadic Turks, it became a popular element of Ottoman cuisine. (Ref: Wikipedia)
We may never solve the mystery fully, but let’s put the origins issues aside and let’s focus on the actual pastry itself – the structure, the creation, the ingredients – shall we? The traditional Strudel pastry dough is very elastic. It is prepared from flour with a relatively high gluten content, egg, water and butter. The flour is often called by the same name – Strudel Flour (or hard flour). The dough is worked quite vigorously, then rested and finally rolled out and stretched by hand so thinly over a large table covered with a crisp white tea towel, that is resembles paper. I recall reading an anecdote quoting that “...it should be so thin that a newspaper can be read through it.” Legend has it that the Austrian Emperor's perfectionist cook decreed that it should be possible to read a love letter through it. After the dough has been fully stretched, melted butter or fine oil is then brushed across the surface carefully as not to tear the oversized thin sheet. The final preparation is the filling, which can range from sweet fillings like; apples and cherries and walnuts and poppy seeds to farmer’s cottage cheese plump with raisins to the savoury versions with combinations incorporating spinach, cabbage, pumpkin, sauerkraut and meat. The filling is evenly dotted across the top layer; the dough is then carefully rolled with the help of the tea towel, brushed with more melted butter and then finally baked in the oven to a golden light brown.
The papery thin strudel dough is complemented by a variety of typically Hungarian fillings:
The Hungarians fill the papery thin strudel dough with; tart green apples, tiny black poppy seeds, crunchy walnuts, bright red cherries, ride pudding, sweet noodles, cabbage or farmers cottage or curd cheese dotted with plump raisins and whatever cake or bread crumbs are on hand. The number of different strudel fillings now-a-days, is almost limitless and includes both sweet and savoury fare. The savoury varieties are especially popular among eastern Europeans and in fact were a staple food for the majority at one time in places such as Hungary , Turkey and Greece .
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
HUNGARIAN WALNUT & POPPYSEED ROLLS
Diós és Mákos Kalács (Beigli)
This is a Christmas and Easter tradition in most Hungarian households including ours. These are the famed rich marbled Walnut and Poppy Seed Rolls. Whether they are made of pastry or simple sweet dough, whether the filling is rich or modest, it is always the pride of the Hungarian hostess. And THIS recipe works every time – fool-proof – never fails!
Yeast Proofing
2-3 pkgs yeast
½ cup milk, lukewarm
1 tsp sugar
Sweet Dough
8 cups flour
3 sticks sweet butter
½ cup sugar
6 egg yolks
1 cup sour cream
1 cup oil
1½ cups milk (as req)
1 egg white (for brushing)
Dissolve yeast in warm milk and sugar. Set aside to proof. Cut butter into flour with 2 forks or pastry blender. Add sugar, egg yolks, sour cream and yeast and work them well into a soft dough. As you are kneading the dough, drizzle in a little oil and blend it in. You might not need the whole cup, but the texture will be noticeably softer and more like croissant bread dough as it pulls away in wisps. Once fully incorporated, wipe dough with remaining oil, cover with linen cloth and set in a warm place to rise for about 2 hours. After dough doubles in size, separate into 4 discs. This dough is now ready to roll out and fill.
Fillings: Prepare Walnut and Poppy Seed Filling (see below). This recipe makes 2 rolls of each so you need to double the fillings recipes. Prepare fillings and set aside ½ of each for each roll.
WALNUT FILLING
Diós Töltelék
Diós Töltelék
This recipe for Walnut Filling is suitable for Kiflis, layered squares, and Beigli.
2 cups walnuts, ground
2 egg whites, beaten
½ cup raisins (sultana)
½ cup sugar
1 lemon rind, grated
Pinch Salt
Beat egg whites until stiff. Fold in sugar. Fold in ground walnuts and lemon rind into egg white mixture. Spoon onto sweet dough or crépe or Kifli.
POPPY SEED FILLING
Mákos Töltelék
Mákos Töltelék
This recipe for Poppy Seed Filling is suitable for Kiflis, layered squares, and Beigli. If you cannot find raw seeds, you can purchase canned poppy seed filling.
2 cups poppy seeds, ground
3 egg whites, beaten
½ cup raisins, sultana
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup sugar
1 lemon rind, grated
Pinch Salt
Beat egg whites until stiff. Fold in sugar. Fold in poppy seeds and lemon rind into egg whites. Spoon onto sweet dough or crépe or Kifli.
Gently roll out each disc into a 12”x12” rectangle. Spoon on filling by dotting generously over entire surface. Use a rubber spatula to spread filling evenly. Roll up dough like a jelly roll and seal in ends so filling doesn't spill out. Place gently on parchment lined baking sheet. Cover with linen and let it rise again in a warm place until it doubles in size - about 1 hour. Brush with beaten egg white.
Bake in 350°F oven for 35 minutes. Should be a light golden brown with a shiny crust. Let cool completely and cut into generous slices with a serrated knife and place them in concentric circles on a platter and dust with icing sugar.
Storage: Wrap in plastic bread bags and store in a cool place until use. Will keep 2 weeks in refrigerator. Freezes very well – double wrap in plastic – will keep for 2 months.
Saturday, October 16, 2010
HUNGARIAN CABBAGE ROLLS.wmv
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Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Hungarian Cabbage Rolls - Töltöt Káposzta
HUNGARIAN CABBAGE ROLLS
Töltöt Káposzta
Stuffed Cabbage Rolls are a Classic Hungarian dish that almost everyone world-wide recognizes. No wedding celebration would be complete without large pots of these tightly rolled bundles of meat and rice held by soft wrappers of cabbage. The rolls lay in a bed of silky sauerkraut with hints of smoky bacon. The cabbage and sauerkraut combine to a most delicious and mellow dish. Once you sample this dish, you are hooked!
Growing up, we all loved Cabbage Rolls in tomato sauce, prepared just like Stuffed Hungarian Peppers. We were able to smother the bread with sour cream and mop up the juices and cabbage pieces. My dad preferred a more smokey bacon flavour. In order to please everyone, mom prepared it both ways. On one occasion, she came up with a brilliant compromise; she combined both sets of ingredients - partially tomato juice and partially smoked bacon and sauerkraut. We loved it and she continued to prepare it this way since that time.
INGREDIENTS
½ lb each of ground pork, beef & veal
1 cup long grain rice
*(Uncle Ben’s Converted Rice)
1 med–lrg head green cabbage
1 large onion
2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
2-3 cloves garlic
2 tsp sweet paprika
½ tsp hot paprika
1 - 28 oz jar Sauerkraut
1 - 28 oz can tomato juice
2 cups water (more if req)
Roux
2 tbsp flour
1 tsp sweet paprika
2 tbsp bacon fat
Smokey Version
½ lb piece smoked pork rib, bacon, pork hock or ham bone
Garnish
1 pt sour cream
1 loaf Hungarian Crusty White Bread
INSTRUCTIONS:
Stuffing/Filling: Grate and sauté onion slightly in a small amount of bacon fat. Add paprika, stir and allow flavours to bloom. Set aside to cool. In a large bowl, combine; onions, meat and rice and seasonings. Taste and adjust seasoning. *(Uncle Ben’s Converted Rice stays whole and just aldente -lovely. Soak in 1 cup luke-warm water and rinse, no need to cook.)
Cabbage Leaves: Core centre of cabbage in a cone shape down and into the cabbage so leaves will pull away easily.
Place in a large 6 qt boiling pot of water. Pierce centre of cabbage head with a long roasting fork and hold immersed in boiling water. As cabbage blanches, the outer leaves will start to peel away. Encourage peeling using a large wooden spoon, pushing each leaf down into the boiling water.
Keep peeling leaves until all are pulled away from the core. When complete, remove all leaves carefully into colander and drain with cold water to stop the cooking process.
Then, place all leaves on a cutting board. Sort leaves by placing all equal sized leaves together. Trim off thick, middle vein with a sharp paring knife being careful not to tear the cabbage leaf. Larger leaves can be cut into 2, right down the centre, cutting away the thick vein to create 2 smaller leaves. The smallest leaves are not used in rolling, but cut into julienne strips to line the pot.
Rolling Technique: Take 1 leaf at a time and place on a cutting board or in your left hand. (ruffled edge away from you) Place an ice-cream scoop or 2 tbsp seasoned meat/rice mixture on the centre. Roll lengthwise starting at the cored flat end ½ way and then fold left leafy side over middle (like a Burrito). Continue rolling and then when completely rolled, tuck right leafy loose end inside with index finger. (Not too much pressure, or you will tear the cabbage and then the stuffing will leak and protrude out during cooking.)
Pot Assembly: If using Smokey Version, place Pork Hock or rib on bottom of pot now. Then, start by placing reserved cabbage strips at the bottom of large pot along with 1/3 of the sauerkraut and the pieces of thick bacon including rind. Start placing Cabbage Rolls snugly in concentric circles layering the sauerkraut in between each layer. The smokey flavours will filter all the way up through the pot. Continue in this fashion until all leaves are rolled and placed into the pot. Cover with more cabbage pieces and sauerkraut if desired. Pour over the tomato juice and enough water to cover. Simmer about 1 hour on medium heat. Test 1 roll – go ahead – you know you want to! If meat is cooked and rice is al dente, then remove from heat. If not, cook for another 15-30 minutes at the most.
Roux- Rantas: Heat bacon fat and add flour and paprika. Sauté slightly then, add water and stir until you get a smooth consistency. You may have to pour off some of the liquid into a small saucepan and cream the thickener from there. Add roux back into cabbage pot. Do not stir rolls; just shake the pot so that the sauce penetrates in between the rolls. Remove from heat. Let rest for 15 minutes, then transfer to a large serving dish.
Serving Suggestions: Serve with fresh Hungarian bread and generous servings of sour cream.
Yield - 24-28 cabbage rolls.
Note: Delicious the next day as flavours meld. Freezes well for 3-6 months. Mom says that red cabbage is never used for cabbage rolls, otherwise – both are fair game in most other stir-fry type dishes.
Soured Cabbage Version: Try soured cabbage (sold fresh out of the barrel at delis or sealed in a plastic bag at the grocer). Leaves are more pliable, but you should rinse thoroughly before using and taste-test as it may be quite tangy for some palates. Also, omit the 28 oz sauerkraut from the recipe - you can cut up left over cabbage leaves to line the pot. This is a bit more pricey, but faster and very delicious!
To view the picturesque version of this procedure - follow the link below. (Photos and Demo by Evangeline Mackell of Design in Bloom) DESIGN IN BLOOM
CABBAGE ROLLS YouTube Video
For More Amazing Truly Authentic Hungarian Heritage recipes -visit our website. Helen' s Hungarian Heritage Recipes
Come back again soon for an update on what the Hot Hungarians are up to!
Clara
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